Eddie Bauer First Ascent guide Ed Viesturs is internationally respected as the only American to successfully summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without using supplemental oxygen. He moved to Seattle in 1977 to study at the University of Washington and then attended Washington State University, where he received his Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree.

From a boy who grew up on the flatlands of Illinois, Viesturs established himself as America’s premier high-altitude mountaineer from his roots guiding on Mt. Rainier while he was still in college. He began guiding on Rainier with RMI in 1982 and has participated in 31 Himalayan expeditions since 1987, including 21 successful summits of 8,000-meter peaks. Among many notable climbs, Viesturs was featured in the 2006 IMAX Everest documentary and received the American Alpine Club Sowles Award in 1994 for two rescues on K2. He has stood on the summit of Mt. Everest 7 times and has made 215—and counting—ascents of Washington’s Mt. Rainier.

After climbing to the summit of Kangchenjunga in 1987, the world’s third highest peak at 28,200’, he dedicated his career to climbing all 14 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen. This was a project he christened Endeavor 8000. He completed his goal after 18 years, with the summit of Annapurna in May of 2005.

Viesturs has appeared as a guest on The Show and The Colbert Report, and is a spokesman for Big City Mountaineers. Drawing from his vast climbing experience with teamwork and risk, he works as a motivational speaker for large corporate clients, the FBI, NASA, Special Forces and professional athletic teams such as the Seattle Seahawks, Vancouver Canucks and the New York Rangers. In 2005 he was honored as the 12th man flag raiser by his hometown Seattle Seahawks. Viesturs is the author of 5 books. His first book, Himalayan Quest, published by National Geographic, showcased his photography taken while climbing the world’s highest peaks. Viesturs’ second book, No Shortcuts To The Top, was a national bestseller. His follow-up books, K2: Life and Death on the World’s Deadliest Mountain and The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna—The World’s Deadliest Peak, are available at edviesturs.com. His fifth book, The Mountain, My Time on Everest, was published in October 2013. Viesturs is the only Eddie Bauer guide also sponsored by Rolex. An alum of both the University of Washington and Washington State University, Viesturs manages to live in harmony as a Husky and a Cougar.
 

Viesturs now resides in Ketchum Idaho, with his wife of 23 years, Paula, and their four children. When not traveling for speaking engagements he spends his free time climbing, skiing and fishing in the mountains of Idaho and still guides ascents of Mt Rainier, in Washington.